3/20/2023 0 Comments Outlet with on off switch![]() Very unlikely to be EMI, and Arc Faults would not be capable of this. Whatever it is, it is probably NOT a nightlight feature unless these things have some big battery you didn't notice. ![]() Returning to us with the measurements requested above will help us give an educated guess as to the cause. Measure voltage between the two wires that were going to the switch, with and without the lights plugged in, and take note of whether the lights glow dim. With the switch still removed, and the wires positioned so that they aren't touching anything metal, power all breakers back on. Buy a replacement if it doesn't look clean and orderly. Once they're completely off, Remove the switch from the wall, disconnect its wires, and test with multimeter to make sure its essentially infinite resistance when off, and 0 ohms when on. Turn switch on, Shut off breakers until the lights go off, or go dim. How much voltage do you measure at the outlet with the switch on, and with it off? Carefully pull the switch or outlet out of. Remove the old light switch or electrical outlet from the electrical box inside the wall by unscrewing the screws that anchor it to the box. Remove the cover plate by loosening its screws with a screwdriver and then pop it off. and if that continues to trip, you know you have a serious problem, and it's time to call a professional electrician with equipment that can trace the wire and/or find the location of the fault. Step 2: Remove Old Light Switch or Electrical Outlet Remove Cover Plate. But if you can't find it easily right away with those things, I'd install an AFCI on that circuit. Or you could start with this just to make sure it's wired correctly (although I don't see how that could be the problem). I suggest doing whatever is cheapest and easiest first just in case the fault is in something easily replaceable (like replacing the switch and/or receptacle, or checking the receptacle with a volt meter). I've opened up walls before and found that half the 2x4 was burned away. These can go undetected for years and have the potential to start a fire. I don't know how to verify this for sure because it might look just like EMI. If this is the case, there's nothing wrong - it's just annoyingģ) There's a small arc fault. but I guess it could feasibly happen if the wires were just run next to other wires that are constantly powering something else. Especially if it's a half switched receptacle that was wired with a single 14-3 wire and the constant hot is powering the other half of the plug and something is plugged into it and drawing power while the switch is off. Depending on how much electricity the lights require, and how dim they are, this might be possible. Some lights might have a "nightlight" feature.Ģ) Electromagnetic interference (EMI). ![]() The module sits up in the lamp dome it's supplied always-hot and neutral and outputs switched-hot to the lamp.1) A feature of the lights. The smart switch then controls the smart module/bulb wirelessly. You have to rewire everything so that in all locations, black=always-hot and white=neutral. ![]() Now, if you are willing to go to smart switches and smart bulbs or modules, such as Insteon's system, then you CAN do it. Learn how (not that hard if you're patient) and do it right. But there are lots of combinations which "will work, and then kill you". This technologically advanced wireless electronic remote switch makes home automation easy - control. Obviously you'll stop when you find the first combination that "works". Home Automation Power Outlet Outdoor On/Off Switch. Modern Code requires that white wire have black electrical tape or other markings to make it clear.Īs George says, never, ever, ever experiment with electrical. Yes I know one is white, but that does not make it neutral. The switch does not have "hot and neutral", those two wires are "always-hot" and "switched-hot for the lamp". There's no way to get there from here with traditional wiring.
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